Venture to le Tour Eiffel (crossing the cobblestones)

Today's entry while Bergerac'd

Bulk of the day was taken up by hooooooot weather and the Eiffel Tower. We slept in after a night of thunderstorms waking us up. Stop one/most of the day: le Tour Eiffel. After standing in line for a half-hour for the eastern pillar, we befriended a family from Salt Lake City, Utah who had been saving a spot in line for the northern pillar and kindly allowed us to join them. So, even though it took an hour and a half to make it to the elevator, we arrived within the base of the northern pillar/base support of the tower. The elevator was wonky. The views were beautiful despite Autumn's and Margot's fears of heights. Disorientation occurred. But worth it for stunning views. Autumn said the city was made to be artwork. Margot thinks the view from the Arc d'Triomphe was better because it included the Eiffel Tower, but it was still unnerving and pretty. Yes, we made it all the way to the very top. And there was a champagne bar on top level of the Eiffel Tower. After souvenir shopping at a giftshop on the tower, we decided to take the stairs back down. It was terrifying and pretty and so full of vini, vidi, vici you don't even know. We were ON the Eiffel Tower for three hours, plus descending down the spiral iron stairs. In celebration, we sat on a couple of different benches, one of which led us to a conversation with some older women from upstate New York en route to a yoga convention in Italy. Oh, humans. We ate at a nearby restaurant. Our victory dinner: apple pie, drinks, a cheeseburger and fries. Glorious.

Downtime at the apartment with unintentional catnaps and intentional showers since it was again in the 90-degree weather despite the thunderstorms. Then to a late dinner at Le Petit Pontoise just down the street. Tasty food and tastier wine was consumed, hence the brevity of this account. 

Iron. Structure. LIghts. The sky. The City. Man-made. Beautifuldistractingdizzy. Le Tour Eiffel.... yeah.

even if we don't take Versailles by Segway as Gob would have it...

you should laugh with us about this. The French are the best!

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/k6THiQbW7wlcSqDySS#from=embed&start=84

At Peace in Paris, June 27, 2011

-       Awoke at 9:30am to discover 90-degree weather and that the Palace of Versaille (today’s proposed adventure) is closed on Mondays.  Back up plan: l’Orangerie, a gallery recommended to us by the girl behind us in line at the Eiffel Tower.

-       Had a pleasant stroll with some minor moments of “Margot, are you sure we’re going the right way???” but after walking through the Jardin d’Tuilleries, we made it to l’Orangerie

-       L’Orangerie: pre-entrance vestibule of just a white room to clear your mind in silence. Each of the two rooms on the main floor had four of Claude Monet’s water lilies, each one spanning the length of a wall, with an ovular bench in the middle. Peace. Of. Mind. If you’re open to it. Just you and these massive, swirl-and-color-filled masterpieces of art. And the basement contained pieces by Picasso, Cézanne, Renoir, Sisley, and an exhibit on Gino Severini, a neo-classical futurist with a brilliant eye for color. A much needed moment of breath and relaxation, just as Monet intended.

-       Ambled through the gardens afterwards wherein there is also a carnival during the summer. It was amusing to see the juxtaposition of these classic marble sculptures and fountains against the glitz and gaudiness of the rides.

-       Lunch beside the Seine, then on to Shakespeare and Company for the rest of the afternoon. There is a piano on the second floor next to the beds, played beautifully by a beautiful Frenchman, surrounded by books. Autumn found a book by David Mamet and got lost in Eugene O’Neil in the not-for-purchase, but amazing upstairs section. Margot found a book by C.S. Lewis, David Mamet, and Shakespeare’s sonnets. Margot really truly wants to move in and live there permanently, or someday dedicate three rooms of my house to such a bookstore.

-       After spending two hours in the bookshop, we walked to Fred and Georges’ for a lovely dinner and lively discussion of books, movies, and politics. We are in the process of exchanging book/music/movie selections and could not be more excited.

Today was so full of moments good for the soul. I mean, every day here has been, but today between sleeping in, finding our own way around, being in the presence of such beautiful paintings and books and in the company of such wonderful people we felt a real sense of ease here. As of tomorrow, we’ll have been here one week, Margot finally earned her blisters, and we are finally over our jet-lag. Also, street musicians here means accordian players, violinists, and pianists. We commonly see people roller-blading or fire dancing around Notre Dame at night. Life is great.

Paris, j’taime.

Lady Date

Disclaimer: This post will sound like a date.

Margot and I woke up next to each other post delicious sleep in. I looked at her with sleep in my eyes and grog in my throat (sans rum) and hit the snooze button numerous times. Very lovingly. Like the good traveling buddy she is, she got up and did some journalling, I think. Clearly she was gazing upon my sleeping body and sketching it...no homo.
-We met up with Nadia and her friend Anne for yummy brunch in front of St. Jaques near a shopping district in Paris. This building is actually the beginning of a pilgrimage numerous Christians have done for centuries to Spain. We, however, finally got to do some clothing shopping! Zara's, Mango & Stradavarius. Bon marche! (inexpensive) and absolutely adorable. Shopping with Parisian girls in Paris! Lucky us.

Shopping avec les femmes!

-Margot and I then found our way to Boulevard St. Michel, les glaces (ice cream) in hand because it was very hot. Boulevard St. Michel is part of the school district and is also the locale of the French Senate.
-Somehow without completely melting we made our way to La Comedie St. Michel where we saw Cyrano de Bergerac. That's right folks. Cyrano, en francais, in France! Roxanne and the pickpocket/poet/soldier were very delighted. The production only had the most major of characters and was played by nine actors. We enjoyed it and Autumn got pictures with many of the actors. It was like Disneyland.
-We then spent several hours in Jardin du Luxembourg people watching and talking about good ol' life. Bare feet in the grass, daisies swaying, small children playing, words and birds in the breeze. Before we knew it it was eight and we were starving. Dinner was had next door to the legendary Shakespeare and Company bookstore, but because dejeuner is truly an affair in France we only had about 30 mins in the book store before it closed. But it is amazing and we are going back every day the rest of this week. If Margot never leaves Paris, it's because she found a hidey-hole in that bookshop.

Cyrano!

As The Pickpocket & Roxane.

EXCITEMENT!

- Our adventures on the way home were long and lost, but educational.

Word of the day: poelée: fried (as in food) (again).

LOVE, Margautumn

From the depths to the heights...the last two days

Friday June 24

Snacked to on delicious pan au chocolat while walking to the Musee D’Orsay via side streets.

-       Arrived when it opened at 9:30am, though there was a strike so we didn’t get in until 11:00am. In the meantime, we chatted with a French-and-British couple who suggested a restaurant in Montmartre.

    Musee D’Orsay: stunning mix of impressionists including Degas, Renoir, Monet, Cézanne, Manet, Van Gogh, Sisley, art deco, a scale model of the Garnier Operahouse. Also, inside a huge former train station. However, no pictures were allowed, not even of the building’s grand interior. We thought this was lame and tried to use our charm and wit to convince the museum attendants that we are too awesome for these rules, but sadly our French is not good enough. Also, in our opinion, Manet is way overrated. Margot was saddened by the temporary lack of Odilon Redon whose exhibit was in transit from another museum. Odilon Redon, “Painter of Dreams”- check him out.

-        Lunch across from Musee D’Orsay. Wound up chatting with Canadians who suggested a sight-seeing bus from the Eiffel Tower. We were shamelessly hit on by our waiter. It wasn’t uncomfortable.

-       Successfully navigated the Metro alone for the first time (without Fred or Georges to guide us). People died, but we got where we needed to go.

Disenchanted by Manet

-       

Eiffel Tower: next to a petit park, had to pick a pillar to ascend, while waiting in line we ate ice cream and chatted with a girl our age from Massachusetts.  She was making out with her super hot Frenchman while we tried  to get a word in edgewise. We got to the front of the line but then had to depart since even taking the elevator would have taken at least 2.5 hours, which we did not have time for. We bailed to eat delicious noms. Suck it. Tuesday. It will happen. Also, Autumn is terrified of heights. This has nothing to do with the fact they left….nothing at all….TUESDAY.

-       

Dinner with Fred, Georges, and Nadia at a jazzy restaurant. SO GOOD.  French beer, French onion soup, French, advice for life, philosophy, shrimp, pizza which has a drawn out German name there, waffles with chocolate and ice cream.

-       ** WE ATE SNAILS…..(twice.)TWO DIFFERENT KINDS…. AND THEY WERE PRETTY TASTY** Also, Autumn, the former vegan, ate tripe sausage. Yeah. There’s no going back now.

-       Feet. They hurt.

Saturday June 25

-       Bought too many pain au chocolat (chocolate croissants) for F & G in the hope of helping out. Silly Americans. Had coffee with Fred then took the bus to the catacombs.  Autumn was in desperate need of batteries. She ventured off alone. No one knows what happened, she’s not telling, but we’re pretty sure she’s a different person.

-       Met up with Georges did the Catacombes. We plunged wholeheartedly into the depths of Paris and our own souls to find numerous bones, weird feelings, dead people.  Egalite a la mort! Equality in death. Which made us so thankful for our lives and the things we share in it.

-       From the depths we came to the surface to celebrate life by celebrating Gay Pride! Yes, French Gay Pride Day in Paris. Trannies, feathers, attractive gay men everywhere, dance parties between floats,  dancing atop moving buses, one float happened to play California Gurlz as it passed us. A surprising lack of nudity, protestors, and pot, but an abundance of JOY. Beautiful.

-       Traversed the initially terrifying Metro like the pros that we are becoming all the way to L’Arc de Triomphe. We snacked at a Franco-Italian restaurant and were stared down and almost thrown out by an Italian waiter with quite an agenda. Charm and wit prevailed and Margot and Autumn earned the honor of a limitless stay.

-       We were then dubbed Marg-Autumn by Fred & Georges who met up with us to go see the Arc de Triomphe.

-       Arc de Triomphe: watched a daily ceremony beneath the arches in honor of the tomb of the unknown soldiers buried there plus an extra amount of ritual today in honor of French soldiers killed in Afghanistan today and yesterday. For real, a whole procession including soldiers, boy scouts of all ages, a full orchestra, veterans, and family members of the dead. Climbed the stairs up the Arc and took in a marvelous view of the entire city stretching outward from the Arc. The city and sky resembled a Hollywood backdrop. Does Hollywood even use backdrops anymore? Fine, a Hollywood “computer-generated green-screen background”. Paris.

-       Home cooked meal at Fred and Georges. Two words. La Tropezienne. Gmmmm.

-       Walked home through the gay neighborhood, awash in gay celebrations, life celebrations, alcohol and rainbows. Let me tell you, this town knows how to party. The contrast of chic & modern atmosphere with the historic everything else is fascinating.

Something should be said and I don’t know how to say it. The men here are possibly the most beautiful men I have ever seen in my life. Well-groomed, fit, attractive and they smell good contrary to popular belief. It’s really quite overwhelming. If you thought Italian boys were cute, think twice. The Italian men are travelling in France right now too.  Also Russian ones on top of L’Arc de Triomphe. If Elise is reading. =) We don't know all their personalities yet, just the ones of the gays, so straight Frenchmen attractiveness still pending.


Advice for life from the French: Whenever you toast someone you must look them in the eyes or you will have bad sex for 7 years! 


Word of the day: ossements - bone remains
dindons- male turkeys


If you have any questions, we have some inklings towards answers. 

Two museums, Two million emotions

Hello there!

Today's adventures were full of emotions. We woke up early and strolled along the Seine until we reached a café near our destination: The Louvre. For some reason, people can tell we are American before we even say a word. Brunch consisted of coffee, croissant, and a croque poullet, then onward. As we approached the metro, a "deaf" woman approached us with what appeared to be a petition. She and her partners were like silent harpies, trying to get our signatures and 20 Euros. She was probably not deaf and we have since learned that this is a scam for Parisians to rob silly tourists. We were not robbed and are safe because we caught on in time. It is possible that this duo had the best of intent, but for all you other silly Americans, take care. Also, don't read the maps near the Metro. Ha.

Once we disengaged, we made our way to the Louvre. The courtyard was enclosed by the Palais (palace) adorned with sculptures of famous philosophers and thinkers. We entered through the glass pyramid atop the entrance and found ourselves in an underground enclave with signs declaring objects from all times and regions in the world. First stop: Mesopotamia to see the stele that is the Code of Hammurabi! The Code of Hammurabi is one of the oldest examples of written text, let alone cuneiform, and contains the laws of Mesopotamia, some of which are built into our democracy. 

Other highlights: Venus de Milo, Niké statue, generally ancient Greece and Rome, so much Jesus and Mary paintings, the Mona Lisa.... we spent all morning/most of the afternoon there. Margot's new favorite hobby: watching people look at artwork, like standing behind the Venus de Milo and observing  people observe the statue. The range in expressions!

Upon our walk back along the Seine, we encountered bouquinists (book vendors) and a light rain. Indecision prevailed as we tried to figure out what to eat so we bought grapes and Autumn's first Magnum ice cream bar from a market near our lodgings. Somehow we are managing to get by with very little French and though many Parisians almost immediately see we are American, they compliment us frequently on our accents. A nap was had. Planning occurred. Boring things. 

We awoke from our jet lagged slumber in the middle of day and learned that the nap to ease jet lag is much desired, but totally futile. Then we had The Hunger. We tried to grab a spot at a cafe on the corner near our apartment and not only were we stared down, but found out that 6pm dinner is not a common thing at many cafes. To our dismay, the waiter recommended McDonald's or drinks at the cafe so we went on our merry way. We then found a delicious Italian inspired restaurant called Le Metro and ate there. Nom! 

Many bridges were crossed, many handsome street musicians were gawked at and listened to. Finally we made our way back to what Fred and Georges call the Castro of Paris to see La Memorial de Shoah or the Holocaust Memorial. It was three stories and another unforgettable experience. We were greeted by four Murs de Noms (Walls of Names) of many of the French people who were murdered or relocated in the Holocaust. A dark room (crypt) beautifully lit with an "Eternal Flame" held a huge, ground level Star of David containing the ashes of many of the Holocaust victims and soil from Jerusalem. The third floor included a library, offices and a museum of film posters from movies made about the Holocaust. Most moving was the last permanent exhibit detailing the horrors of the Holocaust. We were inundated with hard-hitting facts, letters, photos and interviews from Concentration, Extermination and Labor camps. It was intense. Autumn was struck with sudden awareness of how genocide should never have happened and that there are still at least three going on in the world today. It's overwhelming and baffling to think that in this world full of so much beauty there can be so much hate and misunderstanding. Needless to say, we left very pensive and somewhat emotional. 

To gather our thoughts and regroup we headed to a nearby Gothic Style, Catholic Church, strange as that seems. It was beautiful, but definitely too much after learning about the nonchalance of the Vichy French Reign during WWII towards the Holocaust. There is an upside to the story, I promise! We walked down the rue in search of desserts and drinks and found the adorable restaurant Philippe-Louise and had Creme-Brulee, Chocolate Mousse and kir! Delicious and happier times were had. We spent the rest of tonight walking the area around St. Michel and Notre Dame, being asked to be taken home by cute French boys and dancing through the streets exploring. Don't ask me why we came home to blog. Apparently we have responsibilities. ; )

In all today was a test of emotional and physical strength (walking f-ing everywhere, but we're getting stronger...YAY). Two museums, a thousand emotions! Tomorrow we see La Tour Eiffel and Musee D'Orsay. 

The word of the day is: Navire -ship, vessel, boat

Bon soir avec reve sucree! Yes, that says good night with sugar dreams.

p.s. yesterday Margot found a bookshop that contained JUST books about archaeology and history. it was beautiful. Also, a librairie is actually a bookshop while the Library is called la bibliotheque!

We're in Paris!!!

Bonjour mes amis!

Autumn and Margot made it to France. A highlight of the adventures getting here:

- left San Francisco at 7:30am California-time on Monday June 20th, transferred in Atlanta after a six-hour delay and plane change (blargh), arrived in Brussels, Belgium at noon Belgium-time on Tuesday June 21st. We had Stella Artois at an American-style diner in the airport since it was on-tap because it's "local". Took two trains and FINALLY made it to Paris where a family friend Fred awaited us.

PARIS.

We took the metro, which was packed to the point where we were supported by the bodies of people around us, like a large game of marshmellow. But upon exiting the metro, we turned right and there was Notre-Dame Cathedral, first thing we saw. Fred took us to another friend Nadia's apartment where we get to stay for the week. It's a charming petit flat the Latin Quarter just a few minutes walk from Notre-Dame. We dropped off our gear then walked over to Fred and Georges' flat about ten minutes away from Nadia's. Their flat is in the midst of the gay and Jewish neighborhood. To get to their flat, we cross a bridge that is covered in padlocks and ribbons with a view of the south side of Notre Dame and happens to bridge the river Seine.

I love lofts.

Our first night here, after 24 hours of travel and minimal sleep, they took us out to pre-dinner wine with their American friend Peggy, then to dinner with Nadia at Nadia's father's flat in Mont Parnasse where she prepared a five course dinner for us, all kinds of salad and delicious wine and small ice creams. Georges knows everything about Paris, such a grand tour guide. Nadia has such a vivacious spirit and fun to talk to, and Fred is has such a sweet and calm demeanor. They're all so intelligent and speak such good English and don't mock us when we test our minute French. Dinner didn't end until midnight. So good! And then we slept for 10 hours. Joy. 

Wedn. June 22 was our first official day in Paris. First order of the day: dining at a creperie. We ordered two crepes. A crepe with cheese and mushrooms (avec fromages et champignons) and a crepe Suzette, which was doused in Grand Marnier and lit on fire at the table. Good call by Autumn. Delicious. As was the coffee! I (Margot) don't drink coffee, but this country might convert me.

From there we wandered and happened upon Shakespeare and Company Bookstore! This bookshop is a used-bookshop full of English books, huge, with beds inside, and a place where James Joyce did some of his writing. We didn't go inside today, but we will!

After that we headed for Notre Dame. The Gothic architecture is STUNNING. Between the stone arches, the vibrant stained glass, and the rustic iron and gilded everything, it's understandable why this cathedral is such a landmark. After that, we purchased crepes with nutella from a stand on the street and enjoyed them while sitting in front of Notre Dame. We then wandered a bit more, had some down time in the flat, then walked back over to Fred and Georges' flat to join them for dinner again. Tonight we went to a superb restaurant called La Coupole or The Dome. This restaurant has been visited by Jean-Paul Sartre, Pablo Picasso, Matisse and Hemingway, among others. We tried foie gras, profiteroles, duck with potatoes, veal, more delicious wine and champagne. Profiteroles are sooooo good. It’s basically ice cream wrapped in delicious pastries and covered in hot chocolate. This does not explain how amazing these are, but just know: Delish!

After dinner, Georges and Fred showed us around some more. We passed many theatres and schools (lycees and universities). They know everything about this city! Every corner seems to have something historical or entertaining, especially at night. We passed the Pantheon (where Rousseau and Victor Hugo are buried) and Jardin du Luxemburg (where the senate gather) and their Parliament building. The gardens were absolutely amazing and the Luxemburg, astounding. Everything was illuminated and beautifully. On our walk we got to see where the crème de la crème of Paris go to university and the architecture of Montaigne who designed most of the schools in that district. We also saw an old Roman bath house that is being excavated currently and a Roman amphitheater! Both were beautiful. There is also an exhibit at the Cluny with a medieval castle called L’Epee. The sword. We were stoked. After a beautiful walk through the perfect weather and glorious views of Paris, we were escorted home by the gentlemen tour guides and haven’t stopped reveling in our experiences. We’ve probably forgotten a lot and this initial blog will be scattered due to lack of sleep and scattered, but AWESOME thoughts. Apologies.

We also found out that a tree we stopped and mused over in the Notre Dame gardens is actually the oldest tree in Paris! It’s over 600 years old and it’s supported by blocks of cement. Quite a site if you have no idea what it is as a tourist, but wonderful to learn its true meaning.

A word about our generous unofficial tour guides: Fred and Georges are quite possibly the most welcoming and open people we have met anywhere. The two inspire so much faith in humanity and have made this trip one we will surely not forget until we are old, grey and too senile to recall our stories of Paris. F & G are even better than JK Rowling’s Fred and George and they don’t need a Marauder’s Map to make this trip magical. (PS, this metaphor has been cycling through Autumn’s brain since her first train ride—Hogwart’s Express—through Brussels). They haven’t mocked us once for our Franglais or for speaking English at all, but they have a golden sense of humor and can take our awful puns. It is the first day and we are truly in love with Paris and the Parisians. Everyone should visit and either a Harvey Dent or someone with an equally persuasive nature will have to convince us to leave.

More stories, laughs (les rires) and mots francais to come!

Word of the day: farsir- to stuff

                                        (As the French have done to us…with                                                       food….if we didn’t make that clear =])

L’amour et bisou!

Autumn & Margot